cadillacs and patty melts and monte carlos
corruption:
we drove around with franco one night in the old peugeot and there were police checkpoints. they just looked in the car and waved us on. seemed harmless enough. then we went out later with aroon in the mercedes E-class daddy moto and we get to the checkpoint and the cop puts up a grin and rubs his fingers together like so and says "money money!" aroon gave the first one 50 naira and he said come on so he upped it to 200. (about $1.25) the sad thing is he gave the guy that watched our car while we were in the club 20 naira. after passing through seven checkpoints it became clear that not everyone could be bribed. there are some people that drive carts down the sides of the roads wit plastic jugs full of kerosene or gasoline, plastic bottles full of kindling for wood stoves. mister tanny told us that obusanjo put about 720 million USD into getting the countries oil refineries into shape so they wouldn't have to import petrol, but no one knows where the money went. he said about one third of the oil extracted is sold by the european and american companies-shell, chevron, total-the other two thirds is given to the nigerian government. no one can say where it goes. there is an oil mafia that controls exports, bribing government officials so that a tanker may be sold to italian and russian mafias, to haliburton. a young coast guard officer got himself into trouble one time because he stopped a tanker that was leaving the port without identifying itself, as he was ordered to do, but this tanker had a deal with the navy that there would be a window in time where no one would patrol. the officer was summoned to abuja for some reason, and the tanker took off then. then he was reprimanded for getting away. all of the officers under him were given pitifully small sums ($150 - $500) to follow the oil ministry line and discredit the officer. mister tanny said that every major business that wants to set up has to make regular bribes to the electrical company, the telephone company, the police, etc. to see that they are allowed to operate. it is not possible that any multinational here is clean, he says, because it is impossible to operate without being corrupt. Jerry Rawlins, past president of ghana, cleaned up politics in the counrtry by having 120 or so corrupt officials murdered and replacing them. he stopped allowing ghanaens to leave the country and forced people to work on farms. he personally went to some farms and started digging to motivate people to do it. there were many refugees from ghana in nigeria during his time, who feared they would be murdered. rawlins stole a nice chunk of money on his way out. ghana's government is now considered one of the cleaner ones in africa, with public services and infrastructure than can be relied upon. most will admit that this would not have been possible without rawlins' oppression. mister tanny said that he would rather have one rawlins in nigerian politics than a million obasanjo's. but to do something like that in nigeria would require killing about 6000 people at least, a genocide. one of obasanjo's early ideas was to stop nigeria's rampant importation in order to encourage local industry. he later admitted that there was only so much he could do to beg customs to stop smuggling.
La cosidad es ese desagradable sentimiento de que alli donde termina nuestra presuncion empieza nuestro castigo...Oliveira es patologicamente sensible a la imposicion de lo que lo rodea, del mundo en que se vive, de lo que le ha tocado en suerte...-Rayuela
"cosidad is that disagreeable sentiment that where our presumption ends so begins our punishemnt...Oliveira is pathologically sensible to the imposition of all that draws him in, of the world that he lives in, of all the ways luck has touched him..."

4 Comments:
Nigeria - the most corrupt nation in the world.
It is hard to pinpoint the 2 to 3 major ills of African nations, because there seems to be too many holes in the fabric of each country.
Stories such as Rawlins' makes me question which evil is more palatable: an oppressive regime that gets some work done in the name of nationalist/socialist interest or a self-indulging crony capitalism that slashes and burns, inevitably chasing people at their heels into refugee camps. Neither are delicacies of choice.
I suppose it is very easy to lose hope in such an environment. The endless tarpit where you sink, struggle, sink, struggle... no stable foothold.
It is a shame, that these leaders do not have eternal life and an immobile bind to their countries - because if they did, they would feel the pain.
Saki,
In regards to your comment "I suppose it is very easy to lose hope in such an environment", you have to see it to believe it. Nigeria is a perfect example. The onset of democracy half a decade ago brought great promises of economic reform, a revision of the government's political agenda and most importantly hope. Sadly enough, the situation has only worsened; what with Obasanjo and his harrom having lost complete direction, the nation is facing a crisis like never before.
I meant to tell you earlier that The Future of Africa is not an article, but a book. It is a compilation of twenty some essays that circumscribe, in great detail, contemporary and urgent issues that the continent faces as a whole, such as: the socio-economic transformation and diversification of the continent; the effort to arrest and reverse the marginalization of Africa in the globalization race; constitutional reform; growth of media and telecommunication and even contemporary art.I highly recommend the book.
The majority of us, especially in the developed world, associate Africa with corrupt regimes, dire mismanagement of national property and resources and also as the home of large criminal networks, ethnic conflicts and life-threatening diseases, all of which have plagued this otherwise culturally rich continent.This book endeavors not to challenge this matter-of-fact viewpoint. Rather, to foster in its reader a glimmer of hope through the realization that locally, nationally and globally tremendous efforts are underway to aid African people to reclaim their core values and rediscover their heritage of basic humanity. One ray of hope that I see personally is that, ever so slowly, people and governments alike are realisiong how essential it is to venture beyond the ubiquituous negative mindset, identify specific problems and collectively work towards addressing them in concrete ways. I shall stop here. Read the book.
Jesse - I will soon migrate this conversation back to my homepage. Thanks for lending the space.
Surya - I hope I did not project utter hopelessness about Africa that does not permit any room for progress. I think there is hope.
You said, "One ray of hope that I see personally is that, ever so slowly, people and governments alike are realisiong how essential it is to venture beyond the ubiquituous negative mindset, identify specific problems and collectively work towards addressing them in concrete ways."
I think you answered quite precisely to my lament of multiple and chaotic problems. And then identified the key players - the gov. and the people - who are to materialize the hope, struggle, and ideas into something more.
The final line in my last comment is a conviction that the flight of leaders and their lack of accountability to the health of their nation is the root of Africa's ills.
I will pursue 'Future of Africa' after I finish 'The Shackled Continent' by Robert Guest (Africa editor of The Economist). Focused more on the South and with yet a dry economic and political flavor/agenda, I still find his first-hand accounts more digestable (than choppy theorist articles) with the personal touch.
Likewise, what you and Jesse narrate will probably become a big influence on how others perceive Lagos, Nigeria as well because it is so real.
much love,
Saki
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