Domingo, Novembro 20, 2005

chauves sourris

walking into town i heard a gunshot and the air was filled with bats. if one got hit the children had wrapped it up looking to sell it. the captain asked us to have a seat and help ourselves to brandy while his wife served us a dish resembling poblano mole made with spices which apparently have no names in english or french. we walked up to the market with the basket of kittens, then decided that it'd be better to gain political capital by giving them away then trying to hustle around looking for a buyer. the manager approached and i heard someone say "this cannot turn out well," but we ended up resolving with the "bien sur, vous etes nos clients" line. the captain drove us over the rippled dirt road in the hilux and i called: "it's a long story, but i need you to meet me at the water tower in two minutes. wake up and get dressed." i waved to the three cars heading to the funeral as i waited for the taxi. we saw some french people that the captain assumed were chinese and he called them over. one said that cote d'ivoire is calm and france is on fire. i left the meeting promising to follow up on the cane rat domestication project and the bank strike.

Sábado, Novembro 19, 2005

supermarket


supermarket
Originally uploaded by jlovegren.
this is the vegetable section of market day. equal in magnitude or the palm tree products section, and the leaf and tuber section.

lalong


IMG_0713
Originally uploaded by jlovegren.
finally we came to a settlement when the manager intervened with the "you are our clients, we would be happy to dice these two pineapples to you at no extra charge, so long as you pay the corking fee." as i was the only one who both wanted rum and knew enough french to explain the complicated proposal, i was made to do the talking. the previous tenant was a master's holder in romance literature, so i got a chance to read the first chapter of the new harry potter book. i knew it eventually had to come to sex. i said i would not go dancing and preferred to watch burning cigarette butts falling from balconies to streets.

meninos


IMG_0712
Originally uploaded by jlovegren.
children have decided that my name is "white man country," and that they should also inform all of their peers whenever i am seen so that my name can be called in unison. but they're not so tough when i point this machine at them and steal their souls

machine


IMG_0711
Originally uploaded by jlovegren.
.

puff puff


IMG_0709
Originally uploaded by jlovegren.
a round object, such as fried bread, tomatoes, or potatoes requires the modifier ata (eta in plural) when mentioned. usually i eat fried bread and beans for breakfast each morning, and this day avocadoes are ripe so it goes along nicely

younger, hunger


IMG_0708
Originally uploaded by jlovegren.
ngwe language highlights:

if an indirect object in a sentence without any explicit direct object requires use of the prepositional phrase "to the hand of."

there are two verbs meaning "to beat":
"ndebe" is used when the beating is certain and imminent
"abeht" is used when the beating is still only an empty threat

Sexta-feira, Novembro 18, 2005

nos somos as luvas verdes, a gente vem te pegar

thursday:
normally i don't tolerate spontaneous disruptions of my class and i'm the type to say nothing to see here people keep moving. but they so rapidly forgot the class and ran out the door it had to be something important. a rat mole was sighted. all the boys ran and surrounded it but then it managed to burrow down amongst some plantain trees and elephant grass. it was on the side of a steep hill, so it had the upper hand. if you catch a rat mole, you can sell it to a rich person like me or another teacher, so the common knowledge goes. they are the easiest wild animal to catch, especially with the aid of a dog. you can get good money with them. the meat of one rat mole (value ~$2) can give enough money to buy ten meals at a local restaurant without meat. one of the most elusive animals is the bush fowl, which is famous for its "sensitivity." a bush fowl will always inspect its surroundings before reaching down to pick a piece of food, so it rarely falls into traps. a proverb in the local language is "as sensitive as a bush fowl," meaning careful and perceptive in one's dealings.

anzoeh:
thursday was also anzoeh, market day. next week anzoeh will fall on a friday. you can buy at the taxi park a little booklet that tells you the traditional day and western day for each day of the year. here in dschang the days are called differently, they speak yemba. anyhow today is amina and it is market day in dschang. i will use the logic of a shopping-addicted woman: there is a big sale. since i will buy these pineapples at 30% savings (which i wasn't going to buy in the first place), i can use this 30% to justify the purchase of a bottle of rum, in order to make proper pinha coladas. (the cost of the rum is the same as that of 35 pineapples, 70 pineapples if i were to get them in belua) on anzoeh i spent my last 200 cfa on a plate of beans, fried bread, and an avocado for breakfast, then ate corn meal pancakes for lunch. i had to turn my head away from the pineapples and tell myself that the season is barely starting, and it will continue until february. the ones that you buy now are surely underripe. the women come in from the west province and sit in a line with table cloths and their carefully stacked piles of tomatoes and onions. the prices are almost standardized so there is little bargaining to do, all in french. facing them are older women with 20L containers of palm oil and raphia wine. these ones bargain with the old men that always like to pitch in on a whole drum like alcohol consumers throughout the world and the bargaining will be in ngwe with all numbers in french. they did not kill a pig this time. last time i bought a kilo of ribs. my friend sent it to his younger sister to burn off the hair and then transshipped via a student who delivered to me and chopped up into pieces suited to stewing with my machete. the word for bacon in ngwe can also mean the number eight, or HIV.

friday:
the last time i was in bafoussam i woke up and turned on a television and i saw the short film vinil verde, in portuguese with french subtitles. i could not understand how it could make it onto the bafoussam television station, but i still watched it. it is an adaptation of a russian fairy tale in which a young girl listens to the record she is not supposed to even though she had an entire package to choose from, and her mother dies one day at a time by losing arms and legs, bloodlessly it seems. the moral of the story: never wear green gloves, and fall in love and have your own children, filha.

the song contained in the green vinyl is gripping:

nós somos as luvas verdes
a gente vem te pegar

(we are the green gloves, we're coming to get you)

anzoeh gi moht:
there will be a large crydie. the fon will even come and his foreign visitors in their prados and land rovers. they will probably kill 5 pigs and 50 crates of guiness. there are different drum beats for different things

Sexta-feira, Novembro 04, 2005

hello doctor

a le ko mami ge, go mbong ?et cabbage...fie ge abe bo ?et

ordering in the dialect can earn you a free ration of boiled peanuts. cabbage has come into fashion in town and two women are selling a delicious cabbage stew with cassava fufu. a saw two men hurrying down the path, one with a raphia basket i assumed to contain a few fowls. upon closer inspection they were just walking fast like everyone here does and it was a small pig, who slackened his bowls as i passed by. the guy was prepared for this. friday mornings is a nice time to sit with mother dolores at the bus stop watching her drop balls of dough into the hot oil, watching the school children pass by. transport prices have dropped somewhat now that the dry season is coming on. the first gust of harmattan entered our classroom and all the children became animated and pretended to shiver. i told them that they should not complain, there are poor children in nigeria that have a slightly colder harmattan wind to deal with. in bafoussam some adolescents smoking say "ndek, j'ai faim." you should be ashamed, i told him, nobody goes hungry in these bamilike lands with such red red soil, there are starving children in niger. i just can't wait until they beg me in niger. 'oh please, there are hungrier people in... sierra leone... maybe. i'll get back to you. have some millet."
asi es

i'm payin' child support, i can't cope...

it came to me quite suddenly on thursday afternoon: ngwe verbs must be conjugated, ngwe nouns must be modified somehow, there are at least two prepositions, so on... you cannot say that it is even close to a time when the language clicks for me, but it is coming to the point where each idea has an in and an out and branches, and connections can be made more easily and plentifully, branching further thus. my favorite rule so far (that i have deduced) is that verbs are not conjugated in the present or simple past, but they have a special conjugation for the accusative mood...

plantains must be green if you want to fry them crispily, otherwise they should be fried and eaten with eggs for breakfast. things are happening with this grinder